I am curious about this. I guess we have all seen "details" graded slabs that were marked, "Improperly Cleaned" implying that there is a proper way to clean? I often come across coins that are nice, not heavily worn, but dirty. I especially do not like the black oxidation common to silver coins. I want my silver coins to be silver, and not like metal detector finds. I often see mentions of dipping, what is this? I know enough to avoid the harsh methods, but would like to know what is considered proper, versus improper.
No sir, I disagree. There is a proper way to clean coins, but many/most collectors do not know how. Its a long complicated subject, but if you search previous threads the information is there. OP, removing toning is easy enough, just use coin dip. HOWEVER, if done improperly it will remove too much of the surface and cause a coin to be overcleaned/improperly cleaned. Bottom line, it can be done but should be done by an experienced hand.
I've got a couple of coins to write about and post photos of in this thread, but can't yet add photos. I'll try to remember tonight.
In his book about type 1 double eagles, there is an interesting piece by Doug Winter on how he "cleaned" - restored I suppose is a better word, the coins in the SS Repuplic ship wreck - how they experimented with different methods of removing rust without damaging the coins. And the info about the saddle ridge hoard restorations shows that there are acceptable means of restoring coins. It would be interesting to see a bulleted list of what methods are "proper" and which are "improper" and the results you might be able to see of each?
I just have to point out that practically everything on this wikihow page is wrong and will damage your coins. There is no method that, if not performed properly, will not damage a coin (and, by damage, I mean leave signs that can be detected with a loupe that it was done). And, even if performed properly, you might end up with a coin in worse shape than when you started.
Any method which leaves physical evidence of cleaning @ 10X or less is an improper one. One which does not is proper. Copper, Silver , and Gold are less hard than cellulose ( paper, cloth ( including microfiber), toothpicks, bamboo, thorns ( green or otherwise) etc.) , plastics, dental picks, screwdriver, soda blasters, etc. etc. Cleaning ( restoring) with chemicals is a one way dangerous ( for the coin and possibly you) path, yet most speed down it without learning the techniques of the procedures. Most dips are extremely concentrated for quick results. Most are safe if you dilute it 10X with water and take 5-10 minutes or more to do the job, stop, rinse with water, and then rinse with acetone and hold by the rim until airdry. Acetone removes any microscopic amounts of residual water and does not harm the metal coin. A knowledge of chemistry is quite useful. There are many other threads on using acetone for removing organic material ( not toning or corrosion) from coins you can search on the site.
This was stated FIRST in the article if you read the whole thing - "Think twice before cleaning them. If the coins are collectible or valuable, cleaning will almost always reduce their value — sometimes by as much as 90% — and cleaning won’t improve their grading (the standards used by coin collectors and dealers to evaluate a coin), so you should usually let them be. If, however, you’ve just got some old coins around that aren’t worth much more than their face value," I would never clean a coin unles just crap coins found metel detecting!!
Cleaning coins is a job for the expert, particularly copper and bronze. Silver and cupro-nickel coins may be cleaned with warm soapy water and the very lightest of brushing with an old soft toothbrush. Steer clear from polishing, this is because it will make coins look bright and unnatural and will not hide their wear, it will also reduce a coin's value. My advice on cleaning is when in doubt simply don't, as for polishing, never.
@desertgem Do you use any of these on a regular basis on your coins? Why do you chose one over the other? Just curios as to who actually does their own with good results. I've never sent a coin to be graded, but have lots that I would like to. I have never cleaned a coin, other than maybe a light rub on a date of an unreadable wheat cent. Does the grading service offer cleaning, or is that something that should be done before it is sent. I have several with great details that have 100 years or so of grime on them and don't remember ever seeing a dirty coin in a slab.
"Regular", no, actually very seldom, only when needed. I use acetone on any metal coin with no concern of problems. I have used E-z-Est dip and the old name Jeweluster on silver for over 30 years, and after my first trial, started using the diluted method, throwing the diluted leftover away each time and acetone as mentioned above. The only other chemical mixture I use, besides acetone, is on copper coins and are the products from member BadThad who is an industrial chemist~ Verdigone, etc. I have experimented with these and know how they will react. Coins from these procedures have easily passed PCGS and NGC ( as well as ICG long ago) with no rejections or details. Just be careful and do one at a time, and don't rush. There are plenty of 90% silver and 5 cent value lincolns to use for experience. YMMV.
Even with the disclaimer, the wiki link offered no benefit to a thread about proper/acceptable "cleaning" methods.
My primary focus was silver. Gold is incredibly inert, and I don't remember ever seeing a dirty one. Copper is not hard to clean, but it loses its patina, and has an unnatural shine. I have often seen silver coins that were in pretty good shape as regards wear, but were dirty, or black from oxidation, and thus, cheap for the grade. But personally, I want my silver coins to be ....silver! when I was very young, I experimented with harsh methods, such as pencil erasers on common date cents. As a metal detectorist, I am well acquainted with those methods, mainly vinegar and salt, or a rock tumbler. The coins often appear weird, and once, a bank would not accept them. I solved that by getting many rolls of coins, searching them, and returning the rest with the cleaned coins mixed in. They blended right in, no problem. Never thought of acetone, although I have used it. That's why I asked here. The knowledge of experience. My only previous use of acetone was after I had installed new laminate floors in my living and dining rooms. My two oldest boys got ahold of permanent markers and proceed to make museum quality drawings on about 400 square feet of floor. They didn't miss many spots. I got a gallon of acetone, and thank God, it took it right off, no damage. Because I had seen slabs marked "Improper Cleaning" I assumed there were proper ways that would not get a coin rejected, or a details grade. But a PCGS Coin Restoration Service? That certainly verifies my theory! One other method I have heard of is boiling in soapy water. I appreciate the info from desertgem. Hey, is washing with soap, water and a sponge count?
Beyond the acetone soak I don't clean coins. I prefer un dipped toned coins anyway. I could buy a bottle of ez-est and then I'd have a bunch of coins that would grade clean but not be worth anywhere near what I paid as there now blast white
Following are a couple of coins that have been cleaned. In both cases, I felt the coins were still right to buy for inventory . . . The 1863 dime is such a scarce coin that I'm not even sure I'll see another for a year or more. When I do, it may not be nearly as acceptable in appearance as this coin, which is housed in a PCGS Genuine holder, so designated because of cleaning. While I'd obviously prefer that the coin not be cleaned at all, I commend the person who did so, as he / she had the good sense to go no further. The coin retains enough of an original look to fit well enough into most serious sets of seated dimes. I guess I'd acknowledge that this is technically a case of improper cleaning, but much closer to the proper cleaned end of the range than a polished coin or a lifeless white-dipped circulated coin. Below is a nearly Gem BU 1912 Barber Quarter. This coin was almost certainly toned at some point, and subsequently dipped white to satisfy the masses clamoring for untoned coins. If it were a circulated coin, lacking mint luster, I'd reject it out-of-hand. Being an uncirculated coin, and sporting intense, thick, creamy luster, I find the dipping much less objectionable, as it reminds me of what coins should look like when released from original rolls, except, of course, that the reeded edge should be toned. I should mention that this coin was removed from a straight-graded NGC holder to put it in a type set. I bought it with the broken holder from the collector who removed it. In both cases, I'm sure the coins would still have been desirable if left uncleaned, and I would likely have paid more for them. Still, they are very good coins despite having been cleaned, and I couldn't pass on them. There will always be cases where you should consider setting your prejudice against cleaned coins aside. As for cleaning your coins, I think that should be done only in rare instances, and only by professionals. - Mike