Question on Archival Quality Vinyl Flips vs Museum Quality Flips

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by Chris Winkler, Jul 12, 2021.

  1. Chris Winkler

    Chris Winkler Well-Known Member

    I am out of flips and not sure which ones i want to order. I want them for long term storage for the future w/o the problems i had with cardboard flips that ruined over a dozen silver coins with black spots. I have the mylar and what i don't like is they don't stay folded, they open like a clam, and frequently split on that seam.

    Seems both Coretek, which NO ONE has in 2x2 now, or SAFlip are the only choices for "Museum Quality at coinsupplyexpress.

    Then you have the Archival Vinyl Flips and i though i ready vinyl (PVC) is not good to store coins due to the plasticizers. Of these i see Guardhouse, Supersafe, and Frame A Coin. Do they have less plasticizers that PVC?

    Interested in hearing all comments and suggestions about which flips i should be using. Thank everyone in advance.
     
  2. Avatar

    Guest User Guest



    to hide this ad.
  3. dltsrq

    dltsrq Grumpy Old Man

    I have been using Guardhouse for at least a decade now. The package says "Unplasticized Vinyl (uPVC)" and "Free of oils and plasticizers". I have had coins in the same holders for years with no issues.

    I used Saflips once upon a time but found they were too fragile (brittle).
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2021
    John Burgess and Chris Winkler like this.
  4. desertgem

    desertgem Senior Errer Collecktor Supporter

    Saflips, Guardhouse coretex, and others are made from stretched Mylar( BoPET) for strength and high visibility. They do vary in thickness which affects those 2 characteristics. Most Coin grading companies use similar makeup. Thickness can become a problem for flexibility and tearing after a period of time or high temperature situations. If you have to move a coin into and out of the flip, the low flexibility ones can cause marks, if roughly handled, on the coins, especially softer metals. If one is shipping coins sometimes a seller will put it into a PVC flip with a label "Do not store in this soft protective PVC flip, discard and replace with a FLIP of your choosing." IMO, Jim
     
  5. Kentucky

    Kentucky Supporter! Supporter

  6. Kentucky

    Kentucky Supporter! Supporter

    Since PVC is so brittle, I can't quite see how they can make an unplasticized version. I would think polyethylene or one of those kinds of polymers would be good.
     
  7. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    The problem is with the wording that companies use in their advertising. People reading that wording may or may not understand what the company really means, because to the words have one meaning, and to those reading them the same words have a different meaning.

    Short and sweet, PVC is a very hard and very rigid plastic. And it has no plasticizers in it. BUT - if you add plasticizers to PVC then the PVC becomes soft, pliable, flexible. And almost all forms of vinyl are made from PVC, but is made from PVC that contain plasticizers so the vinyl is soft and flexible. Most album covers, 3 ring binders, things like that, the vinyl covers contain PVC with plasticizers.

    With coin flips it's the plasticizers that are the problem, it's the plasticizers that create what we call PVC residue that harms coins.

    So, when buying coin flips, as long as the company states that the flips contain no plasticizers, then you don't have to worry about PVC residue getting on your coins. And it doesn't matter if they say archival quality or museum quality, that's just advertising and they pretty much both mean the same thing - that the flips do not contain any plasticizers.

    It is also important to understand that archival/museum quality flips have their own problems, they too can be and are harmful to coins. But they are harmful in different ways, they are very prone to scratching coins, causing hairlines on coins, and causing wear on coins.

    So what's the answer ? It's quite simple - don't use coin flips - at all !
     
    wxcoin, halfcent1793 and differential like this.
  8. Chris Winkler

    Chris Winkler Well-Known Member

    Thank you! Though what am i suppose to use to hold these coins? I don't want them banging on each other, and the capsules get expensive & bulky.
     
  9. Kentucky

    Kentucky Supporter! Supporter

    :)
    [​IMG]
     
  10. CoinCorgi

    CoinCorgi Tell your dog I said hi!

    You're a witch!
     
  11. Kentucky

    Kentucky Supporter! Supporter

    [​IMG]
     
    wxcoin, Cliff Reuter and CoinCorgi like this.
  12. CoinCorgi

    CoinCorgi Tell your dog I said hi!

    Transgendered Witch.
     
    Scott J, wxcoin and Kentucky like this.
  13. Kentucky

    Kentucky Supporter! Supporter

    Don't ask, don't tell
     
    CoinCorgi likes this.
  14. Publius2

    Publius2 Well-Known Member

    I doubt it was the 2x2 cardboard holders that caused your silver coins to spot. It was more likely the environment the coins were in. If the humidity is not controlled, then silver coins will corrode and I'm using the worst possible word here. But toning, tarnishing, corroding are all the same thing.

    I don't favor mylar/PVC flips for all the reasons mentioned in previous threads. I do use 2x2 cardboard flips for raw coins. If the coins are circulated I just use a standard cardboard flip stapled with a flat-clinch stapler. If the coin is mint state or proof, I use the 2x2 cardboard flip that is self-sealing (brand Supersafe). Now, all my valuable coins in 2x2s are stored in 3-ring binders using the 2x2 pocketed pages. Each page is separated from adjacent pages and the front and back binder covers using a 8-1/2 x 11 sheet of heavy artist paper that is no-acid paper and thus no sulfur. This keeps the coins pretty safe from damage due to rubbing. If I was keeping them in a 2x2 storage box, I would use an unused and unstapled 2x2 to separate each coin.

    For raw coins of value that are going into a collection of mostly slabbed coins, I use one of several brands of "make your own slab" that are available wherever coin supplies are sold.

    Of course, you can use the "Air-Tite" - type capsules but I think you said you don't want the expense of those.

    Finally, wherever you keep your coins, I recommend you control the humidity. I use dessicant packs that can be recharged by plugging them into the wall outlet. Keep your coins in something where the environment can be controlled and with the dessicant packs and you will have little to no problem for many years. The container could be a safe or even a metal ammunition box.
     
    serafino and Stevearino like this.
  15. Chris Winkler

    Chris Winkler Well-Known Member

     
  16. Chris Winkler

    Chris Winkler Well-Known Member

    My problem with the cardboard was a few developed pin holes and that is where they turned black. There were in coin boxes with dozens of others buried away in a bigger box for almost 2 decades.

    I do use desicant in everything also and got the ones from Interteck that you can put in the oven and i have them all in a metal filing cabinet with dessicant all around, though i think i'll get some of the bigger ones that you mention and put them in there. In Dallas its a little humid, though not as bad as Houston...

    Thanks to all for their valuable feedback.
     
    Stevearino likes this.
  17. Kentucky

    Kentucky Supporter! Supporter

    I think Doug @GDJMSP has addressed your black spot problem before and ascribes some, if not all, of it to cardboard dust getting on the coins before you sandwich them and staple.
     
  18. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Yeah, I get it, individual coin holders are "expensive and bulky". But lemme ya a question. Pretty much any you've ever bought for your collection, if it had cost $1 more than what you paid for it - would you have still bought it ?

    Probably 99 out of a 100 times most people are gonna answer yes to that question. If it cost a $1 more they'd still buy it without even blinking. But, ask them if they'd spend that same $1 to buy a coin holder that would protect that coin as best as it can be protected - for the rest of your life, for the rest of the coin's life even - well, the number of those who say yes sure do drop.

    But why ? I mean it's still the same dollar ! You'd spend it in a heartbeat for this but you won't spend it for that ? I'm sorry but that just doesn't make sense - not at all.

    And that's really how ya gotta look at it. And there's more to it than that. I mean who can say, honestly, that if a coin, regardless of it's value, is worthy of being in your collection - is it not worth a $1 to protect that coin as best it can be protected ? Fact of the matter is it'll cost ya less than $1, maybe as little as half a dollar - per coin. It not only seems cheap, it seems like money well spent to me. And truth of the matter is - it seldom gets any better than that. That's about the best anybody can ever hope for.

    Coin philosophy 101.
     
    CamaroDMD, Scott J, wxcoin and 7 others like this.
  19. Kentucky

    Kentucky Supporter! Supporter

    But I have a lot of 5/$1 coins...
     
  20. Chris Winkler

    Chris Winkler Well-Known Member

    I get it, makes sense, now have to look at case level pricing! Its for all the non graded coin I have, which are quite a few in a hundred shapes & sizes...
     
  21. Razz

    Razz Critical Thinker

    I could not agree more! This 1909 VDB is high AU or MS but not worth slabbing. In an airtite it will never get a staple scratch or get cello rubbed from pulling out of an album repeatedly. Best 40 cents investment I can make. DSCN2785~2.JPG DSCN2786~2.JPG
     
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page