Poor Mans 1955 P DDO?

Good Evening Gentlemen! I hope everyone had a good week. We here in NC have been blessed with beautiful spring-like weather during the afternoons. Another one is on the books for tomorrow. I might just be able to finish up this roof re-do finally!

So here goes.

After looking for a whole day, if this is a DDO, i would say either a 1955 1 cent WDDO-003 or a 1955 WDDO-008/009. From what I have learned so far and in trying to attempt to apply it to an actual coin as like a school test, this is what I have come up with. I was starting to look at the possibility if this was one of the DDO/DDR versions, but my head is swimming and I knew it would take hours for me to transfer these to my laptop, try to do a side by side with Wexler's pictures and type out the narrative,

1. I do understand that the higher MS grades are the ones most sought after (MS 68,69, 70) hence the huge difference in value (pcgs). An MS 68 versus a MS 65. I saw the price drop from like $4600 down to like $1 on that small date bronze 1982 (P i think) last night!

2. I do understand that the likely hood of finding one of these high quality H20 (ty Adam Sandler) coins from pocket change/coin roll is practically non-existent.

3. If there are different varieties of an error, in this case DDO, AND different die stages AND different PMD according to each coin....how do you tell if you have one? Especially if there are no die markers?

4. I do understand that not every die marker will show throughout the die stages. I do understand that PMD can also obliterate these markers. I do understand that not every variety of a particular DDO is going to command the same value.

5. I do understand that I could be completely wrong and that my coin is NOT a DDO at all.

BUT I still think it absolutely totally cool if I did find one! Even if the value of my coin, cause of popularity, die stage and PMD, and quality make it only worth 1 cent. It still would just be too cool.

So, these are the pictures I have. I am working on getting a better understanding of this whole process, cause and effect, etc. I will tell you what I think it is after going through the different varieties and markers from Wexler's. I am having the hardest time on my laptop trying to put pics side by side for comparison. I am done trying that bs for today. I have spent hours trying to figure it out, i still can't, and i am not giving it another minute today at least. Eeww! I am so frustrated. Lol

In the last picture, the collage one, the 2nd and 6th pic (the lighter color ones), are from Wexler's.

I would appreciate it if you would throw in your 2 cents, as to whether I am on the right track as to identifying marks created by the mint, attempting to identify varieties, attempting to learn the definitions and lingo associated with numismatics. I chose this coin cuz it's a familiar one to you guys.

DISCLAIMER:
I AM NOT IN ANYWAY CLAIMIMG TO HAVE STRUCK IT RICH OR JUMPING WAY OUT OF BOUNDS THINKING I HAVE FOUND THE MOST HOLY GRAIL.

I WOULD LIKE VERIFICATION ON WHAT I HAVE LEARNED SO FAR ABOUT IDENTIFICATION.

I COME TO YOU HAVING RESEARCHED THE MATERIAL BEFOREHAND AND HAVE NOT JUST JUMPED TO CONCLUSIONS WITH BLANTANT NAIVETY.

I AM USING THIS COIN BECAUSE OF ITS FAMILIARITY AND BECAUSE I CAME ACROSS IT IN A COIN ROLL TODAY.

I AM TRYING TO LEARN THE BASICS OF NUMISMATICS, NOT EVEN IMPLYING THAT I COULD HAVE ACCOMPLISHED THAT IN 1 WEEK. NOTHING ELSE AND NOTHING MORE. THIS IS PURELY FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES.

Thank you in advance for your time, effort, charitable contribution and patience in helping me with my numismatic education.

 

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mine than theirs

 

You can easily tell on the last 5 of the date if it's a poor man's DDO. The last 5 has like a ghost 5 to the right of the 2nd 5...





not my coins....look at the last 5...

 

Mine and theirs.....yours die deteration~ vs ~ theirs the rarer of the 55 ddo's sorry but they are out their I have found 10 of them in my CP days.

 

On the poor man’s double die, the die wash on the outer devices creates a fading of both 5’s, especially the last one. Die attrition affects the outer devices more so at the latter die stages. As you see on your specimen, the letters in IGWT are washing out towards the rim. The 5’s in the date look good yet for this to be a poor man’s doubled die. And die deterioration is not true doubling anyway. The holy grail for the date is a great example of a DDO. So obvious that magnification isn’t needed.

 

You might try this if you are using windows 10.

There is a shortcut to split windows that is really useful. In an active window, press and hold the Windows key and then press either the Left or Right arrow key. This should automatically snap the active window to the left or right. Select another window to fill the second empty space.

Jim

 

oh, you might need to switch back!

To exit split-screen mode, maximize one of the program windows by clicking the maximize icon at the top-right of the window. The icon is the square between the - and the X

 

no.. i got that i am talking about putting 2 pics side by side so they can be easily compared. like left pic mine and right beside it a pic of a known example

 

I'm very impressed by your efforts! Try and take it easy on the CAPS key. Keep up the good work!

 

Good luck on getting the roof work done.

Just my way of saying: I'm staying out of this one. LOL

 

Ok but what do u mean by not your coins? Im confused. Also, what if i do have one of the lesser DDOs? But because it's last die stage and it's really worn out that you can only see a faint hint of those markers?? I mean that's what my whole question with this this post was... when you have such damage done to it, ( I mean I'm not saying that it's it's worthy to go through all that trouble to verify it)

but I'm saying if there is that much damage and it is last die stage.. are you saying you just would never worry about it?? or would you say you it's still cool that you can verify that it was one of the lesser varieties?? and how would you go about doing it?? because throughout the different stages that the appearance of the coin and what the markers are known to be are going to change. Like some of the posts on Wexler's, he said this die stage whatever particular marker disappears . ..well then how would you identify a coin?

I guess that's my main question. I'm trying to wrap my head around this whole situation that I'm presenting here. And if it's not something anybody would look at and it's not worth anything other than maybe just kind of a cool topic you know to speak about or you know something somebody maybe wants for the collection why would they go through all the trouble to map out all these varieties of nobody paid attention to them?

 

Keep in mind that the Poorman's Doubled Die 1955 is not a doubled die at all. It's a 1955 with varying degrees of die deterioration. If not for the Holy Grail 1955 DDO, it's doubtful that the Poorman's Doubled Die would be anything at all.

The first step is determining if your coin has any doubling on it. Once you establish that, then you can determine Class of Doubling and then start to look for the markers. We can tell by your coin that it is in a later die state, probably LDS and not the die set (Obverse anyway) that had the die wash about the 5s in the date. This is a different working die altogether. Wrong die...you will never find the diagnostic markers on it that are captured by the various attribution sites. Variety hunters need to be mindful of this.

Your 1955 was not coined by the die that coined the Poorman's Doubled Die. As for which minor variety this might otherwise be, I don't see any doubling in the photo's you provided. Just typical die wash/attrition about the outer devices of IGWT. The dies in the 50s were run to LDS and VLDS before being decommissioned.

 

Wow, @Kristine Garrant you are digging into this more than I ever have in all my years of collecting. Don't let any smartie comments deter you from going on. I'm impressed! About all I know about the 1955 doubled die is that there is a famous one that is REALLY doubled, and a Poor Man's DD that just shows a bit of a shadow along the bottom part of the second 5. The good 55 DD is a very expensive con while the Poor Man's DD is cheap (I have one of those). It's interesting to see how many DD cons there are, and yet the 55 is the King of the hill! Just shows what marketing can do. http://doubleddie.com/302101.html

 

Not my coins means I used pics from a Bing search engine. I agree with Kevin the poor man's 55 doubled die is actually die deterioration.

 

..m yeah I got you on that but a question why why do they have all those different varieties do you think that some of those varieties shouldn't be attributed to being a variety of the 1955 because it's actual diet deterioration or do you think all those versions are legit I mean like what's your opinion on that?

 

I say collect what you want. Finding them in coin roll hunting is very hard. Not impossible, but you would have to go threw so many coins before finding something worthy. I only have bought 1 variety so far... the doubled ear 1984. Yes it was expensive. I will want the expensive DDO 1972 down the road when I can afford it. Eventually a low grade, but authentic 1955 doubled die. I would collect ones you can see easily with your eyes and 10 power loupe

 

That's what I need to do.. Diet!
I'm 15 - 20 pounds overweight

 

Doubled ear NGC MS-67 Red $425.00

 

I once had the 1995 doubled die where you could see LIBERTY doubled really easily. I sold it during hard times. It is still affordable at $50-100 depending which grade you want.