Key date type set?

Discussion in 'US Coins Forum' started by ROLLJUNKIE, Jan 28, 2014.

  1. ROLLJUNKIE

    ROLLJUNKIE Active Member

    I am thinking of tackling something like this because there really isn't one series that I want to exclusively collect. I am planning on just 20th century coinage. I will post my projected list with grade budgets and then hoping for some opinions.

    1901-S Barber Quarter (G4)
    1909-S Indian Head Cent (MS63-64RD)
    1909-S VDB Lincoln Cent (MS60-63RD)
    1916 Standing Liberty Quarter (G4)
    1916-D Mercury Dime (F12)
    1921-D Walking Liberty Half (XF-AU)
    1928 Peace Dollar (MS64)
    1932-D or S Washington Quarter (MS63-64)(Which one and why/or both?)
    1937-D Three Legged Buffalo (MS60-61)(Should varieties count?) If so...
    1955 Doubled Die Lincoln Cent (MS60RD)
    1995-W Proof Silver Eagle (MS69DCAM)

    The part that I really struggle with is being able to afford MS for most coins and then have to throw barber, SLQ, and Mercury dime in there in such poor condition. Also, what are thoughts on gold being included? I know I can include or exclude any coins I want but this is really difficult to decide where to draw the lines.
     
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  3. ROLLJUNKIE

    ROLLJUNKIE Active Member

    I do want to add that my budget numbers would be buying 3-4 coins per year.
     
  4. geekpryde

    geekpryde Husband and Father Moderator

    I like your idea for a Type set. The costs involved seem scary! I look forward to following your progress.
     
  5. geekpryde

    geekpryde Husband and Father Moderator

    What about 1942-D/D 5C (D Over Horizontal D) in high AU? That would get you a key date Jefferson.

    Also, maybe add an Early Commemorative, like 1900 Lafayette Dollar in MS63/64.
     
  6. kaosleeroy108

    kaosleeroy108 The Mahayana Tea Shop & hobby center

    your missing a few

    1955 ddo lwc 1cent
    1972 ddo lwc 1cent
    1995 ddo lmc 1cent
     
  7. geekpryde

    geekpryde Husband and Father Moderator

    I think these may be too affordable (not KEY enough) for this Type set, the 1995 is only $150 at even MS68.
     
  8. Tom B

    Tom B TomB Everywhere Else

    The 1901-S Barber quarter and 1916 SLQ will give you relatively little coin for the money in G4. In truth, my own opinion is that I do not like the project as outlined, but of course that is simply my opinion and you should work on your collection in a manner that suits you best.
     
  9. tdogchristy90

    tdogchristy90 Dieu et les Dames

    I kind of agree with Tom B. when researching for my type set I found that consistency tends to be key to any set. I understand wanted key dates maybe investment wise but when considering the term set, every one I've come across says a common set that is xf across the board is "better" than a set that is ms for fifteen coins and have 5 in g/vg. Those 5 break up the consistency and just kind of ruin the image when looking at the set in its entirty. It only takes one bad apple....
     
  10. Mr. Flute

    Mr. Flute Well-Known Member

    It's an intriguing set idea, but when I think "key date" varieties and errors don't count.
     
    Jmad likes this.
  11. ROLLJUNKIE

    ROLLJUNKIE Active Member

    I understand what you are saying and this was a concern, but the more I thought about it, the more I realized most sets are not immune to this problem.
     
  12. ROLLJUNKIE

    ROLLJUNKIE Active Member

    I think you may be right. Maybe it should be split into two type sets. Key dates of the twentieth century, and then varieties of the twentieth century. I think the biggest thing is establishing the final list and then I could go shopping! :)
     
    Jmad likes this.
  13. beef1020

    beef1020 Junior Member

    This makes no sense to me. The attractive part of a type set is to have nice coins representing every type. The reason you get less coin for your money with key dates is due to set collectors bidding up the price because they need that key. If you don't need the key, why buy them?

    I can't imagine putting together a date set of large cents and choosing the reeded edge 95 to be my 1795 large cent example...
     
  14. ROLLJUNKIE

    ROLLJUNKIE Active Member

    I appreciate your opinion. I guess I'm more trying to acquire a set of rarities, not just a certain grade. I could easily go out and buy high grade random coins if I wanted to but that doesn't seem like much fun.
     
    Jmad likes this.
  15. geekpryde

    geekpryde Husband and Father Moderator

    I still like the idea. :cool:
     
  16. quarter-back

    quarter-back Active Member

    Just my opinion, but I would lose the 3-legged Buffalo in favor of one the early branch mint type-2s. Also, you are missing many types. I'd suggest adding the 70-s small date Lincoln, 12-S Liberty nickel, any very high grade (MS-67) 20th century Barber Dime (for some, these are all key dates), high grade 49 or 49-s Roosevelt, a 53-S FBL Franklin, a 64 accented hair Kennedy, the 72 Type 2 Ike, Cheerios dollar. Not all expensive, but many are key dates for the series.
     
  17. BigTee44

    BigTee44 Well-Known Member

    If you don't care about grade, get AU55-58 instead of MS, more coin for your buck!
     
  18. beef1020

    beef1020 Junior Member

    I appreciate yours as well. I agree a random set of high grade coins does not seem like much fun, but how is a set of key dates not also a set of random coins? The key dates are not rarities in any meaningful way.

    Keep in mind this is coming from someone who collects large cents by die state, I have 11 1849 N2s and counting, but it sounds like you have not found an area of collecting that really interests you yet. If that's the case, I doubt a key date type set will provide as much interest as you think it will. Just food for thought, collecting is a personal journey, collect what you like. The great thing about this hobby is you can define for yourself what is cool absent outside pressure, because it's all quite un-cool to the rest of the world :)
     
  19. micbraun

    micbraun coindiccted

    I don't like the idea of paying strong money for G/VG coins just because they're supposed to be key dates. If I had all other years and mm of a series then it would make sense. I would go for those where you can afford higher grades first and then think it over again... Just my opinion.
     
  20. micbraun

    micbraun coindiccted

    Something I'd like to add wrt gold coins: Why not save the money for the coins you considered buying in lower grades? Maybe you'll still like a VF-35 in a couple of years, but a VG... dunno?
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2014
  21. flintcreek6412

    flintcreek6412 Active Member

    Collect how you want and enjoy. I'm guessing thought that once acquired in VG you'll want to upgrade. Nothing wrong with that. Fill the spot then trade up as money allows.

    Don't worry about impressing others because frankly there are some pretty deep pockets out there.

    Another way to consider it and keep it challenging is to put a set together based upon "best for $XXX". It would be a neat way to show the premium assigned to different coins. Lets say you want to invest $20K over so many years. You want maybe 10 coins so buy the best coin you can for $2000 each. Some might get you MS70 but other's might only get you a VG or F. I don't know keys well enough to know what they cost but it could be fun to know all coins cost about the same but conditions will very a great deal. IMO, if you can get an MS70 or best grade ever for less than your single coin budget, then I wouldn't consider it a rare key date, or you budget is just unbelievably impressive. Next you could really challenge yourself to find the best deal grade you can for the money. Sure $2k might get you an XF45 of something but can you dig up an AU50 for the same budget with lots of searching.

    Just brainstorming for ya.........
     
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