Is Blue Book accurate for what most dealers will pay?

Discussion in 'What's it Worth' started by Gam3rBlake, Feb 14, 2021.

  1. Gam3rBlake

    Gam3rBlake Well-Known Member

    Everyone has heard of Red Book but I don’t seem to hear much about Blue Book.

    When I first started collecting my LCS told me Red Book was retail and Blue Book was wholesale.

    I have a 2021 Edition of both Mega Red Book and Blue Book.

    I also have a 2015-2016 Red & Blue Book if anyone wants one. XD
     
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  3. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan 48-year collector Moderator

    Sometimes yes, sometimes no. It's just a very general idea of what wholesale prices might be from the average dealer. Obviously there's lots of variables there, since no two dealers will typically price stuff the same way, whether they're buying or selling. Blue Book prices, like Red Book prices or any other reference, for that matter, are just a general rule of thumb. I doubt many dealers refer to Blue Book themselves. Most likely use Greysheet for US coins.
     
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  4. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan 48-year collector Moderator

    Yep. That's the general idea.
     
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  5. Gam3rBlake

    Gam3rBlake Well-Known Member

    Any idea where I can pick up a Greysheet?

    I am trying to price my coins realistically so if anything happens to me whoever gets them knows what to sell them for. But I want the prices to be realistic for what a dealer would pay rather than what I paid for them.
     
  6. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan 48-year collector Moderator

    "Greysheet" is the nickname for the CDN- Coin Dealer Newsletter. I suppose you could subscribe, though as I recall, it is rather expensive. You could also ask your LCS if they would sell or give you a copy.

    But if you're just an average collector, using a variety of references like Blue Book and Red Book and Numismedia, and extrapolating from there (i.e. "reading between the lines" and interpreting from what info you gather from several different sources) is probably the best way to go. No one source is definitive, when you get right down to it.
     
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  7. Gam3rBlake

    Gam3rBlake Well-Known Member

    Can you give me an example of how to do it?

    For example I bought this coin but how much should I put for the value? Obviously it will be less than I paid right?

    But how much less?

    D781E3AD-5969-4B6F-B153-45D477198DFC.jpeg
     
  8. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan 48-year collector Moderator

    If that's the case- you're just wanting to help your heirs (aren't you kind of young, still?) - then the Blue Book is the best thing to leave with your collection of US coins, since it's got low wholesale prices in it.

    But again, what a dealer will offer in the real world often bears no relation to published reference guides.
     
  9. Gam3rBlake

    Gam3rBlake Well-Known Member

    Well not necessarily my heir.s. Just in case anything happened to me in general.

    I guess I just want to keep some sort of record of prices.
     
  10. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan 48-year collector Moderator

    That is a lovely coin. When you get up into higher-tier material like that, the price is often set by auction.

    As to pricing it, you can look at the PCGS and NGC priceguides, Greysheet, Numismedia, Red Book, Blue Book, etc. By using several different references you can get a general idea.

    That depends on a number of factors, not least of which are how much you paid for it and when you sell it. It won't necessarily sell for less than you bought it for- if you bought it at the right price. Who knows?

    My advice to you is to consult all the various references you have at hand, to get some general idea of what a coin should be worth- before you buy it - then try to get it at the best possible price. If you do that, then maybe it will be worth more later when you sell it, if you sell it at the right time and through the right venue.

    Me, I just record what I paid, and later, when I sell something, maybe I gained a little and maybe I lost a little. I seldom take really big hits or make really big scores. It's usually just a little bit on either side of breaking even. But if I held stuff more for the long term, who knows?

    PS- I will add that I usually break even or make a tiny profit most of the time. Learning to do that, and buying selectively while gaining experience in the marketplace- is the way to do it. It doesn't happen overnight.
     
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  11. Gam3rBlake

    Gam3rBlake Well-Known Member

    Ah ok yeah maybe that would be smarter to just mark what I paid and keep up with references the best I can. When I bought it I saw it was several hundred dollars under NGC price guide and Red Book yet a couple hundred over Blue Book so I figured it was a good deal. I also haggled & paid in cash to save on fees & get a lower price.

    They charge 3% on credit card purchases but I understand why.

    I learned long ago to always pay in cash for coins and bullion lol!
     
  12. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan 48-year collector Moderator

    I'd say you're solid, then. It is an original, problem-free coin with nice eye appeal for the grade, and NGC certified.
     
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  13. Gam3rBlake

    Gam3rBlake Well-Known Member

    Well now I feel better xD.

    It was tough trying to price certain coins.

    I always try to stay away from the problem coins. Unless it’s an amazing coin that I’ll never be able to afford in non-problem condition. Like a $50 gold Augustus Humbert piece or a pre-1800 gold American coin.

    What I really like about this particular DBD is the clean fields. There are no scratches and it looks totally cameo with the way it all toned evenly.

    Just my opinion.

    Red Book says $1550
    NGC says $1750
    Blue Book says $1200
    The Coin Shop wanted $1540
    I paid $1460

    So I guess I’ll just mark $1460/$1200 2/21 to show what I paid & what a dealer might pay as of 2/21 and subject to change at a later date.

    Does that make sense or am I just sleep deprived and not making sense? o_O
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2021
  14. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan 48-year collector Moderator

    Makes sense.
     
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  15. Gam3rBlake

    Gam3rBlake Well-Known Member

    Oh ok whew! That makes things a lot easier. I think it’s good to know the overall value of one’s collection. Once it gets to a certain point I think insurance is a good idea. Maybe at like the $20K mark.
     
  16. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan 48-year collector Moderator

    Keeping detailed records is smart practice.

    I just found a nice collection database site called CollecOnline. I’ve only gradually begun the migration of my collection from CollectiveCoin over to there.

    CollecOnline is a French site but easily navigable by English speakers, and it has lots of tools for entering all your price data and totaling up your costs and so on.

    Here’s what my beginnings look like over there. The migration will take me some time, so as of this post I only have a few of my ancients listed as of yet.
     
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  17. Gam3rBlake

    Gam3rBlake Well-Known Member

    Very nice ancients!

    Maybe for someone like me who has a smaller collection it would be easier to get my collection migrated on there.

    I hear the coinage from Julius Caesar’s era are ridiculous expensive.
     
  18. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan 48-year collector Moderator

    Yes, I think getting started with a database site like that, while you're still small, is a good idea.

    As to ol' JC, he usually doesn't come cheap. The one Julius Caesar coin I've owned was a bit of an ugly duckling, but that was working with a $500 budget. (I barely squeaked in under that price.)

    While it wasn't the best example, it had a readable name, and is a lifetime issue struck around the time of his assassination.

    J75nfaItRhOm98av0pof_TC01-JuliusCaesar-046800-frame.jpg
     
  19. JCKTJK

    JCKTJK Well-Known Member

    Last edited: Feb 14, 2021
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  20. longshot

    longshot Enthusiast Supporter

    Dealers usually have copies from the last few months laying around and I've never had one object to passing one to me.
     
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  21. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan 48-year collector Moderator

    Ditto. (Not that I've ever really asked, since I'm not a big Greysheet user myself, but I've had a few give me some.)
     
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