Is anyone familiar with the GSA program related to Carson City dollars who can answer this question? Someone has told me the serial number of the certificate included with the dollars has the date of the coin as the first two digits of the certificate serial number. The certificates themselves are otherwise identical in every way. They're claiming the certificate below is not the same one issued with the 1878-CC dollar in the box it came with, that it belongs to an 1883 dollar, and since they don't match the coin is worth far less. I can't imagine it makes that much difference but would love to hear what everyone else has to say about it.
This is my 1883 CC and it;s certificate. It could be that someone lost the original certificate with yours and replaced it with another as others I have seen have the last two numbers of the date of the coin as the beginning of the cert number
Is the '78 GSA in an "Uncirculated" slab? If so, this is the certificate for one of those, so you at lest got that.
There's actually a market for the cards and boxes alone and the '78 goes for about five times what the '83 does. It looks like someone swapped that one out. The non Carson City uncirculated dollars came with a 'MU' card and I've seen more counterfeit MU cards than I've see authentic.
Here's an article on the subject https://www.coinworld.com/voices/gerald-tebben/be_sure_to_checkcoa.html
I don't know about "worth far less" but yeah, worth less if it's all not matching and in good condition for the packaging. What you are describing would be valued as a 1878-CC morgan dollar that's non-GSA as the certificate and likely the box don't match, and possibly the coin has been switched inside the holder slab. the cert if for an 1883-CC and one that is in an "uncirculated silver dollar slab" if the coin is and 1878-CC and it doesn't have "uncirculated silver dollar" on the lens, it's likely below MS state for some sort of issue, like bag marks. in which case yeah, "worth far less" it's worth less if the accessories are beat up and the cert don't match the coin, or the box is missing or holder scratched up ect. Not all GSA dollars were uncirculated, and it was common to try to pass off the AU-ish ones on the unsuspecting with packaging left over from the nice ones that were sent in for grading. I THINK, the wrong certificate suggests tampering in some form. here's a question. did they also have a soft pack or only this big lens? I seem to remember a blue envelope GSA with a pliofilm? Am I thinking right? And if so, is there a difference in values for the packaging differences?
i was searching and found answer to all my question from Potty dollar 1978, who quoted conder101 I think, keeping the chain alive!
Well, in point of fact the people who sorted the GSA coins and decided which ones went in Unc holders and which ones went in Circ holders - did not know how to grade ! They knew next to nothing about grading coins.
First two digits are the year,So 79,90 and 91 are valuable.Many copied/counterfeit cards exist.On a genuine card,The blue background eagle seal/image will be made up of small,round blue dots from the dot-matrix printers of the era.Most copied cards made on modern printers will show the round dots as small dashes or squares.
If that's indeed a GSA dollar it's pretty decent...have seen far worse GSAs. Also, seems like I've seen the cards without the blue background (Heraldic eagle seal), plus without any serial number on the card, even if with an OGP box. I always looked for the GSAs WITH the proper s/n cards and blue background, even before I knew anything of the first two nos...just seemed to make sense.
I seem to remember learning here on CT the GSA used collage students to do the "grading" and packaging for the GSA Morgan Dollar program.
As others have said it matters. I never bought any that did not have the matching cert. In fact the certificates alone sell for up to $100. I have seen $60 as a common price.
$100 just for the cert? Can you imagine what someone in 1975 would have said if you told him that someday, the certificate alone would be worth $60-$100? Probably need to get the grading services involved at this point. Surely an example with perfect corners and no ink migration is worth $700,000 provided it's housed in a sealed plastic flip with the grade of "10" assigned to it.
