Grading and Authentication?

I'm trying to decide between NGC and PCGS to get some coins authenticated/graded. They both seem costly, so I'm in the process of "researching" (basically Google) to sort through to pick out a handful to send in.

• Would anyone recommend one over the other?
• It says there is a value limit for tiers. Does anyone know what happens if I over/under- estimate the value I put on the submission form?
• Or what if I select a Tier but the value of my coin is greater than that tier?
• Does NGC or PCGS just simply move me (and charge the difference) to the appropriate Tier?
• Sorry, and one more - NGC says something about a 1% market value fee. Am I correct that this applies only to every high-end rare coins? I think PCGS submission form fine print said it was if the coin was "rare" and over tens of thousands of dollars...

I'm currently in the Bay Area (Nor Cal) so thinking PCGS. What do you think?

Thank you in advance! Any input is greatly appreciated!

 

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Unless you are working through a dealer, there are going to be up-front costs for PCGS. You must "join" them in order to do direct submissions. Not an insignificant amount. A free membership to NGC comes as a member benefit of ANA membership. I advise reading the MEMBERSHIP material on each site, and look at the forms for submitting coins. There is no way to "game the system". The tiers are what they are.

This is not a step to take lightly or quickly.

 

Richard here (above) has bestowed upon me my 7,000th like. Thank you @richard sheehan.

 

PCGS gets my vote.

 

What type of material are you submitting? The TPGs each handle different types of coins/medals better than each other. I would not use the same TPG for everything across the board.

Have you first determined if what you have to submit is a good submission candidate?

 

let's see photos of the coins you want to send in. both are good. both are good for different reasons. In my opinion the coins would have to be worth at least $200 in value to get graded TPG. Then you have to figure out if it will straight grade or not. If not then it is not worth getting graded.

 

One of the best ways to get answers to your questions is to contact the certification services directly and ask them. PCGS seems to have a slightly better reputation with dealers. If you're buying coins that are already certified, buy the coin and not the holder. If you find a coin you like in an ANACS holder or even one of the lesser services, don't hesitate to buy it if it's priced right.

 

PCGS without question for US coins in general, but @Jaelus is correct that certain looks do better at one instead of the other.

For PCGS nothing happens if it goes over by a little bit. NGC has upcharged me every single time something went over by even a couple dollars while PCGS never has.

Yes, the very expensive tier or cross overs which wouldn't apply to you.

The upfront cost for PCGS actually saves you money on the submission when you get the 8 vouchers, using them for regular tier service with secure plus gets the most value for them. I would rejoin every submission for the vouchers if they would let me.

 

NGC pretty much the best place for ancients. ANAC just doesn’t get full respect from many ancient collectors...

 

Any extra benefits with that???

 

Is that after you lost the suit. 7000 ain't easy. Your knowledgeable, funny as all get out, and honest. I can see the next 7000 in the near future

 

I hope these members have helped you out. Good luck and keep us posted. @WannieA

 

Is it to late to retract them????

 

My plan is to get it authenticated at a coin dealer (someone local), and then submit to NCG or PCGS. Here are a few - I know several were purchased at coin dealers, but of course, I was a tween when I was keeping up with my dad with my tiny legs LOL - so I can't recall where they all were purchased, nor how authentic the coin stores were back then (in the 80's). I do recall the Junk Dollars and Auto Dollar were from a reputable dealer - so I'm told LOL. We shall see. Not certain about any of the others though.

I tried the at home tests I googled, but of course, that's not saying much I guess- non magnetic, weight was all within .2-.3 of the NCG info. Sorry for pic quality - can't get focus of whole pic when I try to zoom in on my phone.

Some of the coins identified:
1928 Auto Dollar (bought from dealer in 1980's - believed to be authentic)
1934 Junk Dollar (Several - from coin shop - believed to be authentic)
1908 Chihili Regular Strike Dollar (Several - questionable - needs verification)
Manchuan 1 Mace 44 Candareens (Y213a.4) needs verifications
Kwang Tung 7 Mace 2 Candareens (Chop marks) questionable -needs verification
1911 Chinese One Dollar (Y31) questionable - needs verification
Memento Y 318.a (Questionable - needs verification)
Japan - 1895 One Yen coin (28th year - needs verification)
Yun Nan 7 Mace 2 Candareens (Y260) - (questionable - needs verification)
Kiang Nan Y145a.6 (LM-244) - (questionable - needs verification)
Fatman Dollar - several (one with chop mark; one with circlet; +)

 

Wow, your dad had a good eye... and back when these coins could be purchased for probably only a small premium over melt. I see at least 6 coins worth sending in...

1928 Auto Dollar
1908 Chihili Regular Strike Dollar
Kwang Tung 7 Mace 2 Candareens
1911 Chinese One Dollar
Yun Nan 7 Mace 2 Candareens (Y260)
Kiang Nan Y145a.6 (LM-244)

Some have had cleaning and/or chops, but still valuable enough to where they are well worth the cost to slab.

As I said in the other thread about the auto dollar, NGC all the way for Chinese coins.

Edit: I also see a 1912 dollar (Y# 321), so at least 7 worth sending in.

 

Thats some good stuff. Those will stuff your pockect

 

I would send these in. especially that auto 1 very nice.

 

The suit is still a 5 or 6 day a week uniform, just not on my avatar. I even just yesterday bought a Sinatra style fedora. Central Casting can now send me for casting calls for the police detective in "West Side Story", a role I have already played years ago. Now I have my own costume.