Direct, Indirect, Diffused Lighting. The differences when photographing coins.

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by LostDutchman, Jan 14, 2012.

  1. LostDutchman

    LostDutchman Under Staffed & Overly Motivated Supporter

    Hey gang!

    I was shooting this coin today when I thought this would be a good example to show how different lighting setups can effect your coin's images. This coin is a nice PL coin but is NOT DMPL.

    The first image was taken with indirect light. This meaning the lights were off to the side of the coin shining onto it.

    cc1.jpg cc4.jpg
     
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  3. LostDutchman

    LostDutchman Under Staffed & Overly Motivated Supporter

    Here is direct light. The light was reflecting directly off the field.

    cc2.jpg cc5.jpg
     
  4. LostDutchman

    LostDutchman Under Staffed & Overly Motivated Supporter

    Here is diffused light through white paper.

    cc3.jpg cc6.jpg
     
  5. LindeDad

    LindeDad His Walker.

    Years ago I bought one of those cloud dome setup's. That thing would make MS coins look like DCAM's good thing the true grade was on the slab.
     
  6. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Every tiny change you make in lighting, angle, and settings results in an entirely different outcome. Anybody who's taken a lot of coin pictures knows that. But most others do not. Which is why posts like this are good ;)
     
  7. JCB1983

    JCB1983 Learning

    Thank you for the informative post Matt. Photography is my enemy. Do you use a tent by chance??
     
  8. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    You just need to know the basics Jason, not that much to it really. First of all you use special light bulbs, like GE Reveal bulbs. You place the lights at the right distance, that depends on wattage, and can vary from 12-36 inches. You place the lights at the correct angle to the coin, and that can vary too. You make sure all other lights are off, and no sunlight in the room. You choose the correct settings for your camera, takes some experimentation for that. And it depends on what you are trying to show. If you are trying to show luster you do this, if you are trying to color you do that, if you are trying to show frost or cameo you do something else. And if you are trying to show detail you do something else.

    Just like anything else, taking good coin pics requires practice.
     
  9. steverr1

    steverr1 Member

    Great post, Thanks..
     
  10. bigjpst

    bigjpst Well-Known Member

    I always like reading threads like this. Thanks Matt. So which do you think best represents the coin in hand. 1,2, or 3? I'm guessing the 1st since you said it's PL not DMPL and the second pic doesn't really show much PL reflection in the fields.
     
  11. LostDutchman

    LostDutchman Under Staffed & Overly Motivated Supporter

    The coin looks closer to #1 but has attributes of picture #2 being PL.
     
  12. bigjpst

    bigjpst Well-Known Member

    This is a good example of what I have said previously about light tents being good for proof coins, but not so great for others, because the diffusion really brings out the cameo, but is a bit off with the color.
     
  13. LostDutchman

    LostDutchman Under Staffed & Overly Motivated Supporter

    Diffused light on UNC coins makes them look very strange. It is however useful for proofs.
     
  14. pumpkinpie

    pumpkinpie what is this I don*t even

    The one diffused through white paper is astounding.
     
  15. LostDutchman

    LostDutchman Under Staffed & Overly Motivated Supporter

    It might look like a frosty DMPL monster... but it's really not. That's the main reason I posted this thread was to show you what the different kinds of lighting can make a coin look like.
     
  16. Thanks for this thread. I have been experimenting with a photography set up since Christmas. Lighting and angles are key! TC
     
  17. cpm9ball

    cpm9ball CANNOT RE-MEMBER

    Thanks for posting this, Matt! I wonder what the coin would look like using axial lighting.

    Chris
     
  18. LostDutchman

    LostDutchman Under Staffed & Overly Motivated Supporter

    That's one setup I don't use currently... It would be neat to see. I may look into setting that up.
     
  19. howboutatrade

    howboutatrade Active Member

    Proof and Uncirculated act differently

    I liked this comparison thread. So I did some shots to compare on my own...same design, both proof and unc. In a dark room. First shot is with direct lighting about 18-24 inches to the sides. 2nd shot is with same lighting position, diffused. 3rd shot is same diffused lighting, with a white bulb about 3 feet above and behind the camera. The proofs look like this.

    P1020477.jpg P1020479.jpg P1020481.jpg
     
  20. howboutatrade

    howboutatrade Active Member

    and the Uncirculated looks like this

    P1020478.jpg P1020480.jpg P1020482.jpg
     
  21. howboutatrade

    howboutatrade Active Member

    For me...I like the 2nd setup for proof coins (love the jet black fields) and the 3rd setup for uncirculated coins (best representation). For this coin, if I was taking a "keeper" photo, I would adjust the light positions slightly to remove the hot spots (glare areas) and such, but the setups would be the same.


    Proof and Unc. Keepers

    2011 US Army Half Proof Obverse.jpg 2011 US Army Half Unc Obverse.jpg
     
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