Are greysheet prices realistic?

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by DukeBedford, Dec 30, 2020.

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  1. DukeBedford

    DukeBedford New Member

    I've been selling some gold and silver coin lots. I've graded them carefully, and calculated the latest greysheet prices for them. But I find most local coin shop dealers offers are at least 10% below the greysheet values. Is this typical?
     
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  3. Publius2

    Publius2 Well-Known Member

    Greysheet is supposed to represent Wholesale Dealer-to-Dealer bid prices. How well it does that is subject to much differing opinion but that is what the publisher purports. To answer your question, I would say that if a LCS is offering you 90% of Greysheet, you're doing rather well. Of course, Greysheet is an averaging proposition for both condition and pricing plus it is intended for slabbed coins, not raw coins. Again there is probably some disparity of opinion on this last point.
     
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  4. Insider

    Insider Talent on loan from...

    Yes & No. Depends on the coin. When I was an active collector, Graysheet was not relevant to the quality of any MS coins I purchased or sold.
     
    imrich, Kentucky, NSP and 3 others like this.
  5. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    I would agree with that ! Count your blessings that you've found a good dealer.

    Agree with that too !
     
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  6. MIGuy

    MIGuy Well-Known Member

    So what was relevant? What did you use to ascertain what you thought were fair prices? When I've been selling, I think the key is patience (if you can afford it), put what you think is a reasonable price on it based on whatever resources you have at your disposal and then put it out there and wait until a buyer comes along. Sometimes things sell fast, sometimes it takes a long time.
     
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  7. ddddd

    ddddd Member

    Patience is definitely key. Some items have a smaller pool of buyers and it takes time for one of them to find your listing. This is especially true for something more unique or a common coin with uncommonly nice eye appeal. Now something generic (bullion, 90% silver, proof sets, etc...) requires a different strategy. That has more defined pricing and you have to either go with the current market or wait until the market moves (which could go in either direction).

    Back to the original post, 90% of greysheet would be very good for many of the common items but might be very low for the better items (and you could achieve higher prices in other venues).
     
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  8. Collecting Nut

    Collecting Nut Borderline Hoarder

    Sounds like a reasonable off to me. Your not going to get grey sheet prices as your not a dealer.
     
  9. LRC-Tom

    LRC-Tom Been around the block...

    Back when I was doing shows, most dealers were basing their buy prices from the public on Graysheet. But the offer was usually 20% - 30% back of bid, unless the coin was something really special. So I think your LCS is treating you well.
     
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  10. johnmilton

    johnmilton Well-Known Member

    It depends upon the specific coin. If the coin is a nice collectible and not low grade or bulk stuff, like rolls of circulated Buffalo nickels, 10% below bid is often a nice offer. But there are over graded coins in slabs that are bad buys. You need to look before you buy.
     
  11. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Well, first ya gotta be aware of and then understand the history behind it all. Ya see, for over 50 years the prices reported in the Grey Sheet were all based on 1 thing, the current and actual high Bid and low Ask on the electronic dealer market. Those are real world prices, they were and still are what sets the market for the vast majority of coins.

    But, you also have to be aware and understand that even when 2, or more, coins are graded the same, and by the same TPG, as well as those graded by different TPGs - the coins are not equal. One, or more, could easily be worth more, sometimes as much as a 100% more, than any of the others. But the Grey Sheet, it would only list 1 price !

    Two things - experience and knowledge.

    Now in today's world, and for the past several years, the Grey Sheet no longer does things the way they did for 50 plus years. Nowadays, they're pretty much like any other price guide. The prices they report are based on opinion, not hard numbers. And to someone without knowledge and experience that can be very misleading - like all other price guides are.
     
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  12. charley

    charley Well-Known Member

    i always used grey as a very general guide only, but for actual purchase, i would first review heritage auction history. for sale, i would use heritage less the add-on.
    i would usually offer more than the asking price, if i thought the ask was low.

    in the last 5-7 years, i think the grey is inadequate, and has many mistakes. quality/info gathering issue, i guess, or just laziness.
     
  13. Mr.Q

    Mr.Q Well-Known Member

    Unless you need the money, keep it. Especially if it is slabbed. Good luck, Happy New Year
     
  14. Phil's Coins

    Phil's Coins Well-Known Member

    Good Advise. I use grey as a starting point only and usually offer 12-15% less, so far it has worked well.
    stay safe and let's put this MISERABLE year behind us.
    Phil
     
  15. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Checking realized prices is great ! And always strongly recommended !

    Doing that, that's a huge mistake !

    You never want to subtract the fees, there's only 1 total price - the bid amount plus the fees - and that's what you should always use.

    Way, way too many people seem to think that "fees" are some kind of extra or add-on and should be deducted or not counted when determining the cost of a coin. This is simply not true. The cost of the coin is how much it cost you - total - not how much it cost you minus the fees.

    With every single coin you've ever bought anywhere from anyone - you've paid for whatever fees the previous owners had already paid. The fees are always added in to the cost/selling price of any and all coins. The only difference is - nobody is telling you - up front - that you are paying those fees, that all previous fees are already added in to the selling price.

    Auction houses on the other hand do tell you up front what that you are paying fees and how much those fees are. But that doesn't change the final selling price, nor does it change the value of the coin - the fees ARE part of the value.

    If you'd like to think of it another way, fine, consider this. If I were selling you a coin and I gave you 1 number, you'd know that's how much the coin was going to cost you - correct ?

    Well, what if I gave you 2 numbers, and told you the coin was going to cost you X amount of dollars, (my cost for the coin) - plus Y amount of dollars for my profit on the deal.

    To determine the value of the coin would you subtract my profit number from the total cost ? Of course you wouldn't, you'd pay me 1 number and THAT would be what you considered the value of the coin to be.

    So, when checking out realized prices on auctions, instead of using the word fees, substitute the word profit for fees - because what fees are, profit. Nothing more, nothing less.

    Fees must ALWAYS be added in when determining the value of a coin !
     
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  16. Phil's Coins

    Phil's Coins Well-Known Member

    I very much agree with what you are saying. My only objection is there are a couple of auctions I monitor that have what appear to be EXCESSIVE fees. I will then check elsewhere in an attempt to locate the same/similar coin with an acceptable fee.
     
  17. okbustchaser

    okbustchaser I may be old but I still appreciate a pretty bust Supporter

    It makes no difference what fee level an auction company charges...1% or 50% are exactly the same in the end. One simply adjusts his bids to correspond with the total he is willing to pay.

    If your total price is 1000.00 you bid up to 999.00 at 1%; or you can bid up to 500.00 at 50%. The total amount is the same.
     
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  18. charley

    charley Well-Known Member

    i understand, of course. it is what i do. it is not that important to me. the piece i sell, when i do...which is rare....is always more than i paid after adjusting for inflation. many hobbyists and dealers alike have been very generous to me over the years, so it is sort of a pay it forward issue. the majority of the time i am only selling because i am replacing the coin.

    if i was a for profit dealer, or viewing the sale from an investment perspective, or sold more than a couple of coins a month/year, your advice and position would be spot on.

    i always sell to yns at much less than the "market" value. i like to encourage a budding collector. we need them in the hobby.
     
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