70s,80s and 90s US quarters worth holding on to?

Good evening everyone! My name is Norman and fairly new with coin collecting. I've found coin colleting and roll hunting quite calming, which by the way has help lessen my anti anxiety medication intake. Anyway, I purchased the red book on coins 2017 edition. I would like to get a feel of which quarters are worth keeping. So far I kept one's that has my family birth years for sentimental reasons. I also kept quiet a bit of the bicentennial ones. I actually have quite a few that looks good and detailed, both the obverse and reverse ( full drum). Anyway I would appreciate any insight, advise or comments. I hope to learn from all of you. Thank you very much.

 

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Welcome! Coin roll hunting is a fun and inexpensive way to enter the hobby.

I would especially look for 1982 and 1983 Quarters in higher (uncirculated) grades. Those are the two years where there were no official US Mint Sets (only souvenir sets, which are fairly expensive). So those two dates are harder to find.

In terms of others in the 1965 to present timeframe, @cladking has written some posts about the dates to look for.

Also, while rare, you can occasionally still find silver quarters. Save anything that is 1964 or earlier.

 

Thanks for replying. Question though, how do I distinguish a 1982- 83 uncirculated coins?

 

These two links are mostly for silver quarters, but it's a good start:

http://coinauctionshelp.com/howtograde_washingtonquarters.html#.WTtEb_nyvIU

http://washington-quarters.com/blog/washington-quarter-grading-scale/

Basically look for sharp details, luster, minimal marks (no serious hits/scratches), and strong eye appeal (subjective).

 

I'll do that. And if it's ok, can I have you eval the pics of the coins that I do eventually get; that is if you don't mind.

 

Here is an Uncirculated example from online:



Here is a circulated coin (lower grade)...notice it has more hits/dings and there is no more luster:

 

Post a picture of both sides of the coin here (on this forum) and we'll help you.

 

I seem get a lot of 1983 D's in change.

 

The best bet is to get an inexpensive folder and save the nicest one you can find of each date. Don't just look for lack of wear but nice well made coins. You can still put together a set in solid VF or better but in just a few years this won't be possible any longer because there are forces working against you. Chiefly these coins are wearing out but every year more new coins are issued diluting the incidence of the old coins. Collectors are starting to notice the dearth of nice older coins and remove them. It appears the FED is also removing old coins because they are often too thin or are culls. Older coins are slightly more likely to be lost and the thinner they get the more this difference increases.

The velocity of quarters is decreasing but the rate at which they suffer attrition is increasing as well.

Some of the later dates are still seen in AU-53 but early dates like a nice well made '71 or '69 are few and far between. Such coins virtually don't exist at all any longer. You can't just take an uncirculated but ugly and poorly made 1971 quarter and turn it into a beautiful AU because it would still be ugly.

 

Thank you Cladking for that very well written reply. I will heed your suggestion and pay more attention on the overall make of the coin.
By the way, when you get a chance, can you share more of your insight regarding coin grading. What makes a coin worth sending off to be graded? How do you choose which one to send?
Any comments, advice and or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

 

It kindda depends on the date. Each date has its own typical set of characteristics like strike, die condition, planchet marking, or scratches. For instance an '82-P quarter is tough in high grade because they are poorly struck by bad dies. An '83-P is tough because they are usually scratched, and a '69 is tough because they are poorly struck and have lots of planchet marking.

As a rule I'd be more inclined to send in coins that "go against the grain". I'd be more likely to send in a well made '82-P with a little scratching than a scratched up '83-P that was "hammered" by new dies.

The services greatly overweight the importance of marking on clad. The old silver coins were generally made to a far higher standard and the primary characteristic that separated the best from the worst was the amount of scratching. But clads are often horribly made by tired old dies. The dies were often set at low pressure to make them last longer so even the first coins from a new die were poorly struck. Most clads, especially the early dates, have severe strike deficiencies that will still be apparent when they're worn down to AG. Indeed, many of the early dates were technically AG as soon as the luster was broken because there's no separation between the letters and the rim, especially on the reverse.

Any clad that's head and shoulders nicer than others of its date and Unc is worth sending in. There are lots of interesting and rare varieties and finding these is easier if you have a full set of coins to which to compare.

Like all collecting there's a learning curve. Just have fun. There's no need to ever buy a coin but if you do then be sure to sell one once in a while so you know the true value. Right now all the clads can be had pretty cheaply (except very high grades and varieties) because there's little demand and this might never change but I'm still betting it will.

 

Quick question. How much does a 1930 and 1937 nickel mint set usually sell for? I was at a yard sale and she was asking $10 for it.

 

I'm not sure what these are.

 

I guess it known as the Buffalo nickel , with a native American face on the obverse.

 

While I have you here, do mind give an idea on what grade my 2 bicentennial quarter would get if I sent it to be graded. Thank you​

 

$10.00 ??????????pay cash......dont bring the price down...and run like hell!!!!!!!!!!!!! wow what a find!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Here's a pic of the set.

 

Usually a mint set is assumed to be from the US Mint and uncirculated. That package was assembled by someone to sell ( usually to unknowing) and the coins do not appear to be mint state, but circulated. Not worth the price at all IMO.

 

She did say that it was circulated, us she's adding 60 to 70 Lincoln pennies from the 30s, 40s and 50s. I decided to get it from her. Plus she's an elderly lady so what the heck. Put a smile on her face.

 

Welcome Norman!

You've come to the right place to get advice on coins. There are a lot of very knowledgeable collectors in this forum that are always willing to help. I've learned so much from fellow CTers over the past couple months and it has definitely added to my collecting enjoyment.

Coin roll hunting is a favorite past time as well. I've been working on a set of Jefferson nickels and have had more fun filling the books from the wild than when I was working on Lincoln wheat cents and scouting auctions for the tough hole fillers.

I always enjoy seeing what others are finding and posting in the CRH results thread. Hope to see some of your gem finds on there!

https://www.cointalk.com/threads/roll-searchers-post-your-results.10176/page-1802