so I’m pretty sure I scored a 1980 D error for days coin!!!! I was told there’s not one but guys I believe I found one lol!!!So first I noticed the R in liberty almost touches the T and goes to a point. Next in god we trust partial is faded.i believe the date says 1980 D. On the flip side The 0E.PLURIBUSURIS (usu) is faded. the two dots on the side of that word there is suppose to be solid circles only 1 is on the right the left is definitely open. And the R in America is definitely D.D??
The fact is no one has been able to show a 1980 D error because the only one they have ever had was the 1980 D dime missing the Iran clad or something .
Youtube coin information is ridiculous. Stay away from that fountain of misinformation. Your Dime is just Circulation wear and tear. There are mint errors found on any year for all denominations.. Even Dimes! Clad coins don't have an Iron clad. It's Cupro-Nickel.
It's just a beat up dime. 10 cents. There's no iron clad. (If I am interpreting "Iran clad" correctly.)
First of all, even the Video says "HIGH GRADE" your coin is badly damaged, not even near High Grade. ooh, the dude said a MS66 1980 D Roosevelt dime is upwards of $2,200. here's a bit of reality buy as many as you can, and sell them to the YouTuber for $2,200. For some reason I don't think he'll buy. I think he overstated the value by $2,191+. That's a somewhat large deviation there .... and the dude said that no MS67 exists. WRONG again. here's a quick search list - the last one is a MS67. I'd stay away from that YouTube poster. you could buy *ONE* MS66 1980 D from that youtube guy, or 252 of them by other means ....
There are numerous errors that can occur on any coin. Most are fun to find but it’s unusual for anything to be worth more than face value. Take some time and review the numerous types of varieties and errors on: http://www.error-ref.com/ Unfortunately, your coin suffered a lot of circulation damage. It appears that your dime was also struck from a worn reverse die, which is the likely reason E PLURIBUS is weak. Everything else is either normal wear and tear, or due to the circulation damage. Also, take a look at www.doubleddie.com and look at the section called Worthless Doubling. It explains how to tell true doubling from Mechanical and Die deterioration doubling. The last two are not considered errors and have no collector value. Finally, avoid youtube. While there are a few good sites, most of the “Find a fortune in change” are click bait. They are loaded with inaccurate/misleading information and don’t tell you the whole story on how to distinguish the truly rare from the common circulation finds. There are many members on CT that have been studying the minting process and collecting errors/varieties for decades. If you get a consensus of opinions on here, then there is a high probability that it’s correct
Welcome to CT. Like the others have said, it is just a damaged dime, which we refer to as PMD, or post mint damage, meaning it happened AFTER it left the mint. Keep looking and learning. Good luck.
If you want to search for errors or varieties, stick to high grade coins. Low grade coins have to have much more dramatic errors to be worth anything - as in errors that will be apparent at arm's length.
